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Handsome as layer cakes are, the swirly stripy pattern of a roulade
is even more enchanting to the Viennese - maybe it reminds them of
their favorite striped Biedermeier fabrics. But Americans, too, seem
to be more impressed by the simplest home- baked roulade than the
most fabulous but more familiar layer-cake shape. How lucky. For a
roulade is baked with exactly the same batter as a spongecake, only
with the easier whole-egg warm- beaten* method., And the baking is
easier, too - you don't have to worry if the batter rises a shade
imperfectly in the oven, since the end result is all rolled up,
anyway. Just resist the impulse to overbake; the cake will roll up
more easily if it is not too dried out. You can whip up this first
roulade on only an hour or two's notice, including cooling time, for
impromptu entertaining. You'll notice that the batter ingredients are
exactly the same as for a Basic Spongecake; no butter, because you
want a roulade very light so it rolls up easily.

6 each eggs
3/4 cup vanilla sugar
1 cup twice-sifted flour
1/4 tsp salt
: grated rind of 1/2 lemon
1 cup (12-oz jar) apricot OR strawberry
: OR other jam, heated
: powdered sugar

Beat eggs and sugar by warm method*.

Combine flour, salt, and lemon rind; fold into beaten eggs, lightly
but thoroughly. Line 10 1/2 x 15 1/2 x 1 inch baking pan with
aluminum foil or, preferably, baking parchment. Pour in batter in an
even layer. Baje in preheated hot oven (450 degrees F) about 10
minutes or until done, propping oven door open slightly during entire
baking time. When cake takes on a golden color and tests done, remove
pan from oven and dust cake surface with flour. Immediately invert
onto warmed flat surface (a length of foil on the stove top, perhaps,
or an inverted fresh baking pan) and gently peel off the baking foil
or paper. Immediately spread hot roulade evenly with hot jam, and
roll up (about 3 and 1/2 turns, ending with the seam on the bottom)
carefully so that the cake doesn't crack. If it does crack, don't
worry - it'll all be covered up in the end. Let roulade rest until
cold. With two pancake turners, lift onto oval or rectangular serving
platter. Dust with powdered sugar. Before serving, slice off the
ragged ends and give them to the children - or yourself - as a
kitchen treat. * Warm Beaten: If you have an electric mixer: Just
break the whole eggs (room temperature) into a large bowl, add all
the sugar, and beat on high speed until mixture is very fluffy,
thick, and almost white. Proceed. From: THE ART OF VIENNESE PASTRY by
Marcia Colman Morton. Doubleday Company, New York. 1969. From the
collection of Karin Brewer

Submitted By KARIN BREWER On 01-24-95

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