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Simple ethnic recipes, unchanged for generations, often have an
authority that the latest food fashions cannot begin to match. The
following Greek lemon lamb dish is a case in point. Faithful to its
frugal origins. this recipe works equally well with cheap cuts like
lamb shanks. breast of lamb or best end of neck. If you do use these
fattier meals, make the dish a day ahead, refrigerate it and remove
the fat that coagulates on top. if anything, the dish gains added
depth of flavour when made ahead and reheated.

Trim skin and ail excess fat from a boned shoulder or leg of lamb.
Squeeze enough lemons to provide 1/3 cup of juice. Open out the meat
and rub both inside and outside surfaces with some of the lemon juice
and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. On the inside surface of the
meat, sprinkle a teaspoon of dried oregano or 1/2 a tablespoon of
chopped fresh oregano. Roll the meat up and tie securely.

Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pot large enough to take the roll
comfortably and brown the meat on all sides. Turn the heat down to
low and add to the pot the rest of the lemon juice, 2 cloves of
garlic, crushed, and another teaspoon of dried oregano or 1/2
tablespoon of fresh.

Cover the pot and simmer very gently, turning occasionally, for about
2 1/2 hours, till very tender. If you like, add small new potatoes to
the pot about an hour before serving.

To serve, remove the string and slice the meat into the centre of a
heated serving platter. Surround with potatoes and pour lemony
juices over the meat.

Makes 6 servings.

From "Raw Materials" by Meryl Constance, The Syndey Morning Herald,
10/6/92. Courtesy Mark Herron.

Posted by Stephen Ceideberg; October 30 1992.

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