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Frangoes, if you are Mad as it is espresso-mad).
-unfamiliar, are a -This even though the
-legendary milk chocolate -original
Confection made famous by Frango is from Marshall
-Seattle (which is almost -Field.
-as Frango-
Ebony dark mint. This is the Frango as I recall it (the Chicago
Frango), and the only variety made with semi-sweet rather than milk
chocolate. I once thought it the solitary owner of the title "the
perfect chocolate mint" - the dark chocolate standing up brilliantly
to a generous dose of peppermint oil, the whole enhanced with a touch
of salt (which adds a certain piquancy). The Chicago ones I recall
were thin-mint shape (I could be wrong - it's been awhile, and I'm
notoriously unvisual), whereas all these are chunky little blocks
about the size of a Tootsie roll on steroids. The flavor is the same.
Mint. Well, here's the challenger to the title. I don't care for milk
chocolate in general and would have thought that the light stuff
would prove too lightweight to stand up to peppermint oil, but I
guess that now I'm a heretic in the eyes of the bittersweet
worshippers. Yes, the light mints are mintier, but only subtly so.
There remains plenty of chocolate flavor, and the candy is
well-balanced. Moka. Good strong coffee taste but little coffee
aroma. Why? There are lots of little bitter Folger's-like coffee
crystals dispersed throughout each piece (the crystals are, needless
to say, better than Folger's). Almond. Pronounced almond-oil flavor,
with a mellow marzipan- like followup, a result of lots of ground
almonds (of varying fineness, so there's a little texture left in the
mouth - except for the Moka and the Almond, all the Frangoes I've had
have been notable for their smoothness). A fine piece of candy,
almost as fine as my dream candy, which is almond paste (not
marzipan) dipped in bittersweet. Latte. Only in Seattle would they
come up with such a flavor. A little hint if that of coffee, and
surprisingly no creamier than any of the other varieties. Okay, to be
honest, there was no flavor discernible other than that of milk
chocolate. Not like the mega-mass-produced stuff that tastes a little
like cheese, but rather clean and fresh, as though milk chocolate
were something other than an abomination. If there were no such thing
as dark chocolate, that would not be a horrible thing, if milk
chocolate tasted like this. Toffee crunch. A good one, but the flavor
is subtle enough so that the mint from the other candies in the
package can be tasted, even though everything is individually
wrapped. The crunches are little and delicate and I liked them. But
what's "toffee oil" (an ingredient)? Raspberry. I guess it's a good
combination in theory, but the problem with raspberry chocolates is
there is none of that fruit acid to offset the richness of the
chocolate, which would be a great thing. These are made with
raspberry oil and are redolently fruity, but somehow without the acid
the flavor comes up short. Rum. My least fave. Artificial rum extract
(why should I be surprised?), but tastefully done for that.
Definitely kid stuff, like butter rum Lifesavers. $15 a pound
(approximately) from The Bon Marche, Seattle WA 98181 206-344-2121
Shared by: Michael Loo, Aug/95.
Submitted By SHARON STEVENS On 10-06-95
Celebrity chef with 3 stars at the Michelin Guide, with worldwide restaurants!
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Heston Blumenthal - The Fat Duck
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