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Stephen Ceideburg 2 md Onions, sliced paper-thin
5 lb Beef bones with marrow 1/4 c Hot chili sauce (tuong ot or
5 lb Oxtails -sriracha sauce)
2 lb Short rib plate, or 1 lb 1 lb 1/4-inch-wide dried rice
-flank steak -sticks (banh pho)
2 lg Onions, unpeeled, halved and 1/2 c Nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish
-studded with 8 whole cloves -sauce)
3 Shallots, unpeeled Freshly ground black pepper
2 oz Fresh ginger root, unpeeled, ACCOMPANIMENTS:
-in one piece 2 c Fresh bean sprouts
8 Star anise 2 Fresh red chile peppers,
1 Cinnamon stick -sliced
4 md Parsnips, cut into 2-inch 2 Limes, cut into wedges
-chunks 1 bn Of fresh mint, separated
2 ts Salt -into leaves
1 lb Beef sirloin 1 bn Fresh Asian basil or regular
2 Scallions, thinly sliced -fresh basil, separated into
1 tb Shredded coriander -leaves
This sublime recipe comes from my mother, a native of Hanoi. She
always made the beef stock in large quantities--enough for at least 3
meals--and froze it in batches until needed.
NOTE: In order to cut the beef into paper-thin slices, freeze the
pieces of meat for 30 minutes before slicing.
The night before, clean the bones under cold running water and soak
overnight in a pot with water to cover at room temperature. (This
will help loosen the impurities inside the bones. When heat is
applied, these impurities are released and come to the top much
faster and can be removed, therefore, producing a clear broth.) Place
the beef bones, oxtails and short rib plate in a large stockpot. Add
water to cover and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes. Drain.
Rinse the pot and the bones. Return the bones to the pot and add 6
quarts of water. Bring to a boil. Skim the surface to remove the
foam and fat. Stir the bones in the bottom of the pot from time to
time to free the impurities. Continue skimming until the foam ceases
to rise. Add 3 quarts more water and bring to a boil. Skim off all
the residue that forms on the top. Turn the heat to low and simmer.
Meanwhile, char the clove-studded onions, shallots and ginger
directly over a gas burner or under the broiler until they release
their fragrant odors. Tie the charred vegetables, star anise and
cinnamon stick in a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth. Add
the spice bag, parsnips and salt to the simmering broth. Simmer for
1 hour. Remove the short rib plates. Pull the meat away from the
bones. Reserve the meat and return the bones to the pot. Simmer the
broth, uncovered, for 4 to 5 hours. Keep an eye on it; as the liquid
boils away, add enough fresh water to cover the bones. Meanwhile,
slice the beef sirloin against the grain into paper-thin slices,
roughly 2 by 2 inches in size. Slice the reserved short rib meat
paper-thin. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the scallions,
coriander and half of the slice onions. Place the remaining sliced
onions in a small bowl and stir in the hot chili sauce. Blend well.
Soak the rice sticks in warm water for 30 minutes. Drain and set
aside. When the broth is ready, remove and discard all of the bones.
Strain the broth through a strainer or colander lined with a double
layer of dampened cheesecloth into a clean pot. Add the fish sauce
and bring the broth to a boil. Reduce the heat and keep the broth at
a bare simmer. In another pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil.
Drain the noodles, then drop them in the boiling water. Drain
immediately. Divide the noodles among 4 large soup bowls. Top the
noodles with the sliced meats. Bring the broth to a rolling boil.
Ladle the broth directly over the meat in each bowl (the boiling
broth will cook the raw beef instantly). Garnish with the scallion
mixture and freshly ground black pepper. Serve the onions in hot
chili sauce and the accompaniments on the side. Each diner will add
these ingredients as desired. From "The Foods of Vietnam" by Nicole
Rauthier. Stewart, Tabori Chang. 1989.
Award-winning television personality. The queen of fried foods and Southern cooking. Earnings: $9 million
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