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Chiles are an essential ingredient in the moles that are among the
most distinctive dishes in the pre-Columbian cuisine. The Nahuatl
word molli means a sauce made with chile. Most gringos think there is
only one mole, Mole Poblano, with bitter chocolate, but there are
endless variations on the mole theme. There are the green moles using
tomatillos with cilantro, green chiles, pumpkin seeds or nuts. There
are red moles that use red tomato, red chiles, herbs and spices. The
pipians are similar dishes using ground seeds or nuts for thickening
and that also find a wide range of expression. The cooking technique
of moles is similar to the method used for curries in India. The
ingredients are ground together into a thick, coarse paste and then
cooked in hot lard for five minutes with constant stirring. The meat
is cooked separately in a small amount of stock or water, which is
used to thin the chile sauce. Meat and sauce are then heated gently
together just long enough to blend the flavors.

It is essential to cook the mole paste in fat or the finished dish
has a raw taste and the flavor of the chile never blends successfully
with the other ingredients. Lard is the traditional fat, but
safflower or sesame oil can be used. The splash and hiss of the chile
mixture when it hits the hot fat is alarming, but if you lower the
heat as soon as the mixture hits the skillet and begin stirring with
a wooden spoon immediately, everything stays under control. Tingas
are related to moles and pipians, but are a true blend of Spanish
cooking techniques and Mexican ingredients. Onions and garlic are
sauteed, tomatoes added, then stock, herbs and spices and the mixture
is simmered to make a sauce. The precooked meat and, usually, chorizo
sausage are then added, with canned chipotle chile. A tinga is really
a stew. The chiles, onion, and tomatoes are never ground and cooked
in fat like they are in moles. I am deeply indebted to both Diana
Kennedy and Elizabeth Lambert Ortiz for both the descriptive material
and the recipes.

Submitted By EARL SHELSBY On 05-06-95

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