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In the main square of Grinzing (Vienna's rollicking wine- garden
district) there is a much frequented pastry shop. Which goes to show
you how Vienna is always Vienna: even its carousing quarter keeps
the civic sweet tooth firmly in mind. Anyway, the shop sells one of
the most delicious roulades I [=author] have ever eaten. It's nothing
complicated - one mouthful and I could figure out the recipe - just
filled with the ineffable chocolate cream called 'Pariser', and so
luscious it gets gasps when you set it on the table. Since this sort
of cream filling would melt if you spread it on a hot, freshly baked
roulade; and since, on the other hand, a roulade must be rolled up
while still hot to keep from cracking too badly - you solve the
dilemma for all such cream-filled roulades by using the technique
described in the following recipe. Jelly Roll batter 2 recipes Cherry
OR Apricot Jam Glaze Parisian Cream 1 Tbsp slivered almonds 1-2 tsp
cherry OR apricot jam

Mix, bake, and invert the cake as in Jelly Roll. Immediately spread a
large-enough sheet of paper toweling (2 sections) - or, as in Vienna,
a large-enough clean dish towel - over the hot roulade. Roll up
roulade and towel together (about 3 and 1/2 turns, ending with gthe
seam on the bottom) to make a kind of jellyless jelly roll. (The
layer of toweling does two things: it absorbs the cake's excess
moisture while it's drying out; and it keepos the roulade from drying
into a solid mass, so that later you can unroll it easily to fill
it.) When the cake is cold, unroll it and discard the towel.
Without trying to force the unrolled roulade flat (that would make it
crack), spread it with the Jam Glaze. Over that, spread a little more
than half the Parisian Cream. Roll up the roulade again, ending with
the seam on the bottom, and remove to serving platter. Spread two-
thirds of the remaining cream over the outside of the roulade to
cover completely. With rose tube of pastry bag, pipe remaining cream
in a decorative line of rosettes down the entire length of the
roulade. Sprinkle lightly with slivered almonds. And dot with small
dollops (about 1/4 tsp each) of the same jam as used for the glaze,
one dollop between each two rosettes. Chill. Slice off ragged ends
before serving. From: THE ART OF VIENNESE PASTRY by Marcia Colman
Morton. Doubleday Company, New York. 1969. From the collection of
Karin Brewer

Submitted By KARIN BREWER On 01-24-95

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