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BOOVA SHENKEL mit shtuffed gnepp will make any plain or fancy
Pennsylvania Dutchman's mouth water, and when the visitor to
Lancaster tastes this beef stew with stuffed dumplings, he'll find
that his taste buds are in complete agreement with those of his host.
Veal pot pie with noodles is another favorite, as are pig's knuckles
and sauerkraut. Ham schnitzel on a small mountain of fresh green
beans makes another weekday meal that sends the men and hoys back to
the fields with renewed zeal. The myth of the seven sweets and the
seven sours, which was invented some decades ago by an imaginative
writer, need not be true of a Pennsylvania Dutch dinner, but a full
meal still is a wonder to behold and should not be attempted with a
half-full stomach. It might include rivvel soup made with milk and
full of tiny lumps of wheat flour or, more likely, the justly
celebrated chicken-corn soup. Cottage cheese, both firm and
succulent, spread with a thick layer of apple butter, occupies the
diners while waiting for the main course, which could well be ham
with dried apples and dumplings stewed in ham broth. A wax bean salad
and, undoubtedly, dried sugar corn are served. Finally shoo-fly pie,
in which molasses comes into its own, makes its appearance.

Most of these dishes can be prepared anywhere, but they have a
special zest and flavor in Lancaster county where most of their
ingredients come fresh from the soil. Even in Lancaster the city
housewife can go to the five farmers' markets and walk among the
colorful stalls in search of the evening dinner. Heaped with
scrupulously scrubbed vegetables and polished eggs, which less
favored counties rarely see except at harvest fairs, the stands bid
for her attention. Mennonite and Amish women show her plump chickens,
homemade sausages and sandwich meats, sticky buns, even flowers to
grace her table. She can buy schnitz (delicious dried sliced apples),
cup cheese, schmiercase, and of course, shoo-fly pies or raisin pies,
which the Amish serve at their funerals. Visiting the farmers'
markets you can see for yourself that the secret of Lancaster cooking
lies fully revealed in the fertile fields of the county.

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