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-------------------GROWING SUMMER SQUASH------------------------

WHERE AND WHEN TO GROW Squashes are warm-season crops and very
sensitive to cold and frost. They like night temperatures of at least
60 degrees F. Don't plant the seeds until the soil has warmed up in
spring, about two to three weeks after the average date of last frost
for your area. Direct-seeding is best for squashes, but if you're
planting a variety that requires a longer growing season than your
area can provide, use transplants from a reputable nursery or garden
center, or grow your own. To grow your own transplants, start four to
five weeks befor your outdoor planting date, and use individual
plantable containers to lessen the risk of shock when the seedlings
are transplanted. Make sure that the plantable containers are large
enough for the variety of squash you're planting.

HOW TO PLANT Squash varieties like well-worked soil with good
drainage. They're heavy feeders, so the soil must be well fertilized.
When you're preparing the soil for planting, work in a complete, well
balanced fertilizer at the rate of one pound per 100 square feet or
10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Two to three weeks after your area's
average date of last frost, when the soil is warm, plant squash in
inverted hills. Make inverted hills by removing an inch of soil from
an area about 12 inches across and using this soil to form a ring
around the circle. Make the inverted hills three to four feet apart,
and plant four or five seeds in each one. When the seedlings are
large enough to handle, thin them to leave the two or three strongest
young plants standing. Cut the thinned seedlings off at soil level
with scissors; if you pull them out you'll disturb the roots of the
remaining seedlings.

FERTILIZING AND WATERING Fertilize before planting and again at
midseason, at the same rate as the rest of the garden. Keep the soil
evenly moist; squashes need a lot of water in hot weather. The vines
may wilt on hot days because the plant is using water faster than the
roots can supply it; if the vines are getting a regular supply of
water, don't worry about the wilting--the plants will liven up as the
day gets cooler. If squash vines are wilting first thing in the
morning, water them immediately.

SPECIAL HANDLING If you grow squashes indoors, or in an area where
there are no insects to pollinate the female flowers--your 51st floor
balcony, for instance--you may need to pollinate the flowers
yourself. Take a soft-bristled brush and dust the inside of the male
flower (the one without an immature fruit on the stem), then
carefully dust the inside of the female flowers.

PESTS Squash bugs, squash borers, and cucumber beetles are the major
pests that squash plants attract. They don't usually show up until
you have a good harvest, so squash is still a good choice for the
organic gardner. Squashes are prolific, so you can afford to lose a
few of your crop to the bugs. Beetles can often be controlled by
hand-picking or hosing them off the plants. Control them chemically
with carbaryl. To control borers, apply carbaryl to the crowns of
the plants at weekly intervals. Do this as soon as there's any
suspicion of damage--once the borers get inside the plants, chemical
controls are ineffective. If a small hole in the stem tells you
borers are already inside, you may still be able to save the plant.
Slit the stem, remove the borers, and dispose of them. Then cover
the area with soil to encourage root development at that point.

DISEASES Squashes are susceptible to bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, and
mildew. Planting disease-resistant varieties when they're available
and maintaining the general cleanliness and health of your garden
will help lessen the incidence of disease. When watering, try to
keep water off the foliage, and don't handle the plants when they're
wet--this can cause powdery mildew and spread disease. If a plant
does become infected, remove and destroy it before it can spread
disease to healthy plants.

Source: Vegetable Gardening Encyclopedia by Galahad Books, NYC, NY
1982 Typos by Dorothy Flatman, 1995
Submitted By DOROTHY FLATMAN On 01-11-95

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